Static club fitting, done properly

Find out what clubs
actually fit you.

Answer a few questions about your body, your swing and your ball flight. You get back a complete build sheet: lie angle, club length, shaft flex and weight, driver loft, wedge bounce, grip size, putter specs and a set makeup with yardage gaps. If you already own clubs, you also get exactly which of them is wrong and what it costs to fix.

2 minTo complete
1 tape measureAll you need
FreeNo email, no account
The Bay Scale. Every height has a reference wrist-to-floor: the arm length that plays a standard lie. How far off that line you sit, in inches, is how many degrees your lie angle is out. See it full size →

Your measurements

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Feet and inches. Measure in the shoes you play in. Golf shoes add roughly ½".

Inches. Stand straight on a hard floor, shoulders relaxed, arms hanging naturally at your sides. Measure from the crease of your wrist straight down to the floor. Get someone else to do it. Reaching down yourself changes the answer.

Show me exactly how to measure wrist-to-floor

The three ways people get this wrong

  • Reaching down. The moment you look at the tape you drop your shoulder and add an inch. Stand still, look ahead, let someone else read it.
  • Measuring in socks. Golf shoes add roughly ½", and you play in golf shoes.
  • Measuring from the wrong point. It’s the crease where your palm meets your wrist, not the knuckle, not the base of your thumb, and not the tip of your little finger.
No tape measure to hand? Carry on without it. Height alone gives you a length, a shaft, a driver loft and a full bag recommendation. Wrist-to-floor is what turns the lie angle from an average into yours. Come back and add it when you can, because it’s the spec that most often differs and the cheapest one to get wrong.

Inches, from the crease of your wrist to the tip of your middle finger. Keep the tape flat against your palm. Don’t curve it over the fingertip or around the heel pad.

Used as a sanity check on the measurement, and as a fallback if you skip it.

Used for shaft weight, material and grip size.

Every direction in your results is written for the way you actually play.

Women's stock clubs are typically 1" shorter and lighter than men's. This only sets the baseline the adjustments are applied to.

If you’ve one, it overrides the band above for the head-type recommendation.

Printed in the spec table for your iron set. Modern game-improvement PWs are often 43–44°, players irons 46°. Everything about your wedge gapping starts here.

The most useful answer on this page. It’s how you actually think on the course, most courses have a 150 marker, and unlike a yardage it’s very hard to flatter yourself with. We’ll work your speed back from it.

Yards in the air, on a good strike, not your best ever, and not including roll. Only used if you skip the question above.

mph. From a launch monitor or simulator. The best single input you can give.

mph. Clubhead speed, not ball speed. Takes priority over everything else here.

Yards in the air. Used only if nothing above is filled in.

Most golfers over-estimate their carry distance by 15–20 yards, because they remember their best shot and count the roll. Being honest here changes your shaft flex.

Think about your transition from the top, not how fast you walk.

If you’ve never checked: put a chalk line down and putt along it. Almost everyone who thinks they’re straight-back-straight-through has a slight arc.

Applies either way. If you’ve clubs we’ll pick the combination of fixes that buys the most improvement for the money; if you’re buying, it tells us how much bag to recommend.

Your irons

Standard is 37" for a men's 7-iron, 36" for women's.

If you bought off the rack and never had them bent, choose Standard.

Woods and hybrids you carry

Tick everything between your driver and your longest iron. This is what makes the yardage table describe your bag instead of a generic one.

Your driver

Degrees, stamped on the sole or the hosel.

Inches. Leave blank if you’ve never measured it.

If the head unscrews from the shaft with a wrench, it adjusts.

Wedges, ball and budget

Degrees, separated by commas. We already have your pitching wedge.

Your build sheet

Here is what fits you

The chart everything starts from

The Bay Scale

Our lie-angle scale. Every height has a reference wrist-to-floor: the arm length that plays a standard lie. Your code is simply how far off that line you sit, one degree per inch. U2 is two degrees upright, F1 is one degree flat, LEVEL is standard, and the scale runs symmetrically from 5° flat to 5° upright.

Your measurement is plotted once you complete the fitting above, with the distance from the line drawn out. That distance is your code.

Read the fitting information →   How to take the measurements, what every spec does, and the tables behind each recommendation.

Why this exists

We’re new golfers, and we’re different sizes. Working out what that meant for the clubs we were buying took reading a dozen places that each had one piece of it, and a proper fitting costs more than most of us wanted to spend on a swing that’s going to change a lot over the next couple of years.

So this is that reading, in one place, with the arithmetic done. It’s a static fit: it works from your body, which barely changes, rather than your swing, which will. That’s the part worth knowing now, and it’s the part a fitter uses as a starting point anyway.

When your swing settles, go and get fitted properly. Until then, this should stop you buying clubs that are wrong for reasons you could have known.