Static club fitting, done properly
Find out what clubs
actually fit you.
Answer a few questions about your body, your swing and your ball flight. You get back a complete build sheet: lie angle, club length, shaft flex and weight, driver loft, wedge bounce, grip size, putter specs and a set makeup with yardage gaps. If you already own clubs, you also get exactly which of them is wrong and what it costs to fix.
Your build sheet
Here is what fits you
The chart everything starts from
The Bay Scale
Our lie-angle scale. Every height has a reference wrist-to-floor: the arm length that plays a standard lie. Your code is simply how far off that line you sit, one degree per inch. U2 is two degrees upright, F1 is one degree flat, LEVEL is standard, and the scale runs symmetrically from 5° flat to 5° upright.
Your measurement is plotted once you complete the fitting above, with the distance from the line drawn out. That distance is your code.
Read the fitting information → How to take the measurements, what every spec does, and the tables behind each recommendation.
Why this exists
We’re new golfers, and we’re different sizes. Working out what that meant for the clubs we were buying took reading a dozen places that each had one piece of it, and a proper fitting costs more than most of us wanted to spend on a swing that’s going to change a lot over the next couple of years.
So this is that reading, in one place, with the arithmetic done. It’s a static fit: it works from your body, which barely changes, rather than your swing, which will. That’s the part worth knowing now, and it’s the part a fitter uses as a starting point anyway.
When your swing settles, go and get fitted properly. Until then, this should stop you buying clubs that are wrong for reasons you could have known.