Reference

Fitting information

Everything the calculator uses, and why. How to take the measurements, what each spec actually does to a golf ball, and the tables behind every recommendation — so you can check the working and argue with it.

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Interactive

The lie-angle bench

Lie angle is the spec people understand least, because its effect is tangled up with loft in a way nobody guesses. Drag the two sliders. The lesson is in the two meters: the face error grows enormously with loft, and the yards offline hardly move at all.

The Bay Scale

Our lie-angle scale. Every height has a reference wrist-to-floor — the arm length that plays a standard lie — and your code is the distance from it, a degree per inch. The codes say what they mean: U2 is two degrees upright, F1 is one degree flat, LEVEL is standard.

The green line is the reference wrist-to-floor for each height — the arm length that plays a standard lie. Your code is simply how far off that line you sit, one degree per inch, which is why the chart draws that distance rather than asking you to find a coloured zone. Complete the fitting above and your measurement is plotted on it.

The detail

Thirteen short sections. Open the ones you need.

01 How to take the measurements

Wrist-to-floor

Stand upright on a hard, flat floor in the shoes you play in. Let your arms hang completely relaxed at your sides — do not stretch down, do not shrug up. Measure from the crease where your palm meets your wrist straight down to the floor. Have someone else read the tape: bending to look at it yourself changes your posture and typically adds an inch.

Typical range is 27"–40" (69–102 cm). This measurement is the reason two golfers of the same height can need lie angles two degrees apart — it captures arm length, which height alone cannot.

Hand length (for grip size)

Palm up, measure from the crease of your wrist to the tip of your middle finger. Keep the tape flat on the palm. Do not wrap it over the fingertip or around the heel of your hand.

Height

Back to a wall, heels down, looking straight ahead. Measure in golf shoes if you can, or add ½" if you cannot — the chart assumes you are standing as you stand over the ball.

02 Lie angle — the Bay Scale, and what a degree is worth

Lie angle is the angle between the shaft and the ground when the sole sits flat. If it is wrong, the sole is not flat at impact, the effective loft twists, and the ball starts offline before the face angle gets a say.

Rule of thumb: every 1° of lie error costs you about 3 yards on a mid-iron. Roughly a third of that is the ball starting offline; the rest is the curve it puts on the shot, because the face is now closed or open to a path that has not moved.

Why wedges punish it, and why the usual explanation is wrong

You will read everywhere that a lie error costs you more yards as loft goes up. It does not — the yards are remarkably flat across the bag, because the bigger face error in a wedge is almost exactly cancelled by the shorter shot. What actually changes is the size of the face error itself:

face change = arctan( sin(lie error) × tan(loft) )

ClubLoftCarry Face turned by 1° of lie errorOffline As % of the shot

A degree of lie error turns a 60° wedge face four and a half times as far as a 4-iron face. The ball finishes a similar distance offline either way, but as a share of the shot it is nearly three times worse — on the club you are trying to hit closest. That is the real reason wedge lie matters, and it is why a fitter checks your wedges separately from your set.

The face-angle figures are geometry and are exact. The yardages are modelled: start direction is about 75% face for an iron, and the curve is anchored on published TrackMan face-to-path data. Treat the yards as indicative and the ratios as solid.

How the Bay Scale works

Every height has a reference wrist-to-floor — the arm length that plays a standard lie. The scale is simply how far you sit from it:

your wrist-to-floor − reference for your height = your code
1 inch of deviation = 1 degree of lie

Measure high for your height and your arms are short: your hands sit high at address and the club needs to be more upright (U). Measure low and your arms are long: hands low, club needs to be flatter (F). Land on the reference and you are LEVEL.

The codes are the answer, not a lookup key — U2 is two degrees upright. We also report the unrounded figure, so you can see whether you sit in the middle of a band or on its edge, which is exactly the case where a fitter would test both.

CodeLie vs standardWrist-to-floorMiss it produces if this is wrong for you
Too upright → the toe sits up, the face points left at impact → high pulls and hooks. Too flat → the heel sits up, the face points right → low pushes and slices. That relationship is what a fitter is reading on a lie board.

Static charts get you a starting point. A dynamic fit — hitting off a lie board with impact tape on the sole — gets you the answer, because your posture and shaft droop at impact are not visible in a tape measurement. The two commonly differ by one step on the scale.

03 Club length by height

Length comes from height, in the half-inch steps club builders actually work in:

HeightHeight (cm)Length adjustment
5'0" – 5'1"151–155−1½"
5'2" – 5'3"156–160−1"
5'4" – 5'6"161–168−½"
5'7" – 6'0"169–183Standard
6'1" – 6'3"184–191+½"
6'4" – 6'5"192–196+1"
6'6" – 6'7"197–201+1½"

A second, independent opinion comes from wrist-to-floor alone: under 32" suggests −1", 32"–34" suggests −½", 34"–36" is standard, 36"–37.5" suggests +½", above 37.5" suggests +1". When the two disagree it means your arms are long or short for your height, and the tool says so rather than hiding it.

Changing length changes lie, and by more than most people expect. The clubmaking rule is 1° for every ½" of length — so an inch is worth two degrees. A longer club plays more upright, because soling it with your hands at the same height lifts the toe; a shorter club plays flatter. That is why "just get them cut down" is rarely just that: take an inch off and you have also moved the lie two degrees flat, which is two full steps on the Bay Scale. A good builder bends the set back; a cheap job does not.
04 Shaft flex, weight and material

Flex by driver clubhead speed

Driver speedFlexRough driver carry
Under 72 mphL — LadiesUnder 150 yd
72–83 mphA — Senior / Light150–185 yd
84–96 mphR — Regular185–220 yd
97–104 mphS — Stiff220–250 yd
105 mph and upX — Extra Stiff250 yd+

Flex by 7-iron carry, if you have no launch monitor

Roughly: 130–145 yd → A; 145–160 yd → R; 160–175 yd → S; 175 yd+ → X. Less reliable than a speed reading, because carry distance mixes clubhead speed with how well you strike it.

Weight matters more than the letter

Flex is not standardised. One brand's S plays like another brand's R, and the same shaft in two weights behaves like two different shafts. Weight is what drives your tempo, your ability to find the centre of the face, and your consistency swing to swing.

ShaftTypical weight rangeSuits
Driver graphite40–80 gLighter for slower/smoother; heavier for fast, aggressive transitions
Iron graphite50–105 g7-iron speed under 70 mph, age 60+, joint issues, or deliberate weight reduction
Iron steel95–130 g7-iron speed 70 mph and up; more feedback and a tighter dispersion

Tempo overrides the chart at the edges. A fast, aggressive transition loads a shaft like extra speed does; a slow, smooth one unloads it. If you are within a few mph of a flex boundary, tempo decides which side you land on.

It is common and correct to play one flex softer in irons than in the driver. Iron shafts load differently and the shorter length makes the same flex play stiffer.

05 Driver — loft, length and launch conditions
Driver speedStarting loftTarget launchTarget spin
Under 75 mph12°–13.5°15°–17°2,800–3,400 rpm
75–85 mph11.5°–12.5°14°–16°2,600–3,200 rpm
85–95 mph10.5°–11.5°13°–16°2,400–2,900 rpm
95–105 mph9.5°–10.5°12°–15°2,100–2,600 rpm
105 mph +8.5°–9.5°10°–14°1,700–2,300 rpm
Angle of attack changes everything. Two golfers at the same speed can need three degrees of different loft. Hitting down on the driver costs launch and adds spin — you need more loft to compensate. Hitting up (+3° to +5° is the tour ideal) adds launch for free, so you can play less loft and get more carry from the same speed.

Length

Stock drivers ship at 45.5"–45.75". Tour average is closer to 44.5"–45". Shortening a driver costs roughly 2–3 yards of theoretical distance and usually returns more than that in centre-face contact, because the face is only about 4" wide and it is much easier to find the middle of it with a shorter club. If you are choosing between the two, take the shorter one.

06 Iron head categories
CategoryTypical handicapCharacter
Players / muscle-back0–4Minimal offset, thin topline, small head. Maximum feedback and workability, no forgiveness.
Players cavity0–9Compact but perimeter weighted. Feedback with a safety net.
Players distance5–18Compact look, hollow body or forged face, strong lofts. Distance in a clean package.
Game improvement12–27Wide sole, low CG, real offset. Gets the ball up and rescues the heel and thin strikes.
Super game improvement25+Maximum sole width, hybrid-like long irons, most offset. Built to make a bad strike playable.

Offset is the quiet variable here. More offset gives the face a fraction more time to square up and moves the CG back — genuinely helpful if you miss right, mildly annoying if you miss left.

07 Grip sizing
Hand lengthGlove (men's)Grip sizeDiameter vs standard
Under 6.9"SmallUndersize−1/64"
6.9" – 7.6"M / MLStandardbaseline
7.6" – 8.25"L / XLMidsize+1/16"
Over 8.25"XL / XXLJumbo / Oversize+1/8"
Grip size is a ball-flight tool, not just a comfort one. Bigger grips quieten the hands and slow face rotation — they help a hook. Smaller grips let the hands release — they help a slice. If your measurement and your miss disagree, the miss usually wins.

Build-up tape adds diameter at the butt but not much in the lower-hand area, so two wraps is not the same as a true midsize grip. And grip weight counts: going from a 50 g grip to a 66 g midsize changes swing weight by about two points.

08 Wedges — loft gapping, bounce and grind

Gapping

Space your wedges 4–6° apart, which is roughly 10–15 yards. Start from your actual pitching wedge loft, not from a nominal "PW". If your set PW is 43°, a 56° sand wedge leaves a 13° hole — you need something around 48° and 52° in between.

Bounce

BounceSuitsFails when
Low, 4–8°Shallow attack angle, firm turf, tight lies, links golfSoft turf or a steep swing — the leading edge digs
Mid, 8–12°Neutral attack angle, normal turf. The safest default.Extremes in either direction
High, 12°+Steep attack angle, deep divots, soft turf, soft sandVery tight, firm lies — the sole bounces into the ball and you thin it

Grind

Grind is where material has been removed from the heel, toe or trailing edge of the sole. More relief lets you open the face without the leading edge lifting off the turf, which is what makes flop shots and short-sided lobs possible. Less relief gives you a wider, more supportive sole. If you are not routinely opening the face, a full or mid sole will serve you better than a heavily ground one.

09 Set makeup and gapping the top of the bag

You are allowed 14 clubs. The job is to cover every distance from your wedge floor to your driver with even gaps, and the place that always goes wrong is the top of the bag.

Driver speedLongest iron worth carryingFill the rest with
Under 82 mph7-iron3W/5W/7W plus 4H, 5H, 6H
82–92 mph6-iron3W, 5W, 4H, 5H
92–102 mph5-iron3W, 5W or 3H, 4H
102 mph +4-iron (or a driving iron)3W, 5W or 3H
The honest test for any long iron: from a flat fairway lie, do you hit it well at least half the time? If not, that slot belongs to a hybrid or a fairway wood. A hybrid launches higher, holds greens better and is far easier out of rough — the only thing you give up is the ability to flight it down.
10 Putter fitting
HeightPutter lengthTypical lie
Under 5'2"32"69°
5'2" – 5'5"32.5"69°
5'5" – 5'8"33"70°
5'8" – 5'11"34"70°
5'11" – 6'2"34.5"70°
6'2" – 6'5"35"71°
Over 6'5"35.5"71°

Adjust for arm length: long arms for your height means your hands hang lower, which means a shorter putter. Most off-the-rack putters are 34"–35" because that is what sells, not because that is what fits — a lot of golfers are playing a putter an inch too long and standing too upright to compensate.

Head style and toe hang

StrokeToe hangHead
Straight back, straight throughFace-balanced (0°)High-MOI mallet
Slight arc20°–35°Mid-mallet or wide blade
Strong arc45°+Heel-shafted blade

The check that beats every chart: set up comfortably, let your arms hang, and look at the sole. It should sit flat. If the toe is in the air the putter is too long or too upright for you, and a toe-up putter pushes putts right.

11 Golf ball selection
Driver speedBallCompression
Under 85 mph2-piece, low compression, soft cover35–65
85–95 mph3-piece mid compression, ionomer or soft urethane65–85
95–105 mph3-piece tour urethane85–95
105 mph +3- or 4-piece firm tour urethane95–105

Compression matters less than the marketing suggests, but cover material matters a lot. Urethane spins more around the greens and curves more in the air. If you are fighting a slice, a firmer ionomer cover is doing you a favour.

12 Standard specifications reference

There is no industry standard, so these vary by a quarter-inch and a degree between brands. They are the baseline this tool applies your adjustments to.

ClubMen's lengthWomen's lengthTypical lie
13 What this tool cannot do

This is a static fitting. It measures your body and asks about your tendencies. That is genuinely how a professional fitting starts, and for length, lie, grip size and set makeup it gets most golfers to within one increment of the right answer.

What it cannot see:

  • Your posture and shaft droop at impact. Only a lie board and impact tape reveal these, and they are why a dynamic fit can land a full step away from the static one.
  • Your actual launch, spin and dispersion. Shaft profile — where a shaft is stiff along its length, and its torque — matters as much as the letter on it, and only a launch monitor can read it.
  • Whether your ball flight is a swing fault or an equipment fault. A slice caused by an open clubface will not be fixed by an upright lie angle. Equipment can reduce a curve; it cannot remove the cause.
  • Anything about a swing that is actively changing. If you are mid-rebuild with a coach, fit the swing you will have, not the one you have this month.

Use this to walk into a fitting knowing what to ask for, and to sanity-check what you are told.